Dead Horse Point and Island in the Sky

Posted on May 15, 2013 by Jeff Moser

After a day spent in Arches National Park, we decided to switch things up a bit with a day at Dead Horse Point State Park and the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park. These parks are also close to Moab, but due to the rugged topography, you must drive a little ways to get there by making a big counter-clockwise loop out of town.

First view at Dead Horse Point

Both the Dead Horse Point and Island in the Sky mesas rest on sheer sandstone cliffs high above the surrounding terrain. At times the cliffs are 1,600 feet above the rim below, and the rivers 800 feet below that. If you have acrophobia, you will be mentally exhausted by the end of the day. The rim trails take you right to the edge, often with only a short stone wall separating you from firm ground and nothingness. I spent most of the day with the feeling I was going to be sucked out into the void. And even if you don’t have a fear of heights, the views seem almost too big and other-worldly to comprehend.

Wide Open Space

We went to Dead Horse Point State Park first. Why the gruesome name you ask? According to utah.com, “before the turn of the 19th century, mustang herds ran wild on the mesas near Dead Horse Point. The unique promontory provided a natural corral into which the horses were driven by cowboys. The only escape was through a narrow, 30-yard neck of land controlled by fencing. Mustangs were then roped and broken, with the better ones being kept for personal use or sold to eastern markets. Unwanted culls of “broomtails” were left behind to find their way off the Point. According to one legend, a band of broomtails was left corralled on the Point. The gate was supposedly left open so the horses could return to the open range. For some unknown reason, the mustangs remained on the Point. There they died of thirst within sight of the Colorado River, 2,000 feet below.”

Colorado River from Dead Horse Point

After leaving the visitor center, the park road takes you over the neck mentioned above on its way to the end of the mesa. It’s easy to see how the horses would’ve been corralled as you drive across this narrow strip of asphalt with cliffs dropping on either side. I drove really slow and deliberately in the dead center of the road.

Dead Horse Point Observation Deck

Located at the end of the mesa is the main reason you come to Dead Horse Point, an extraordinary view of a tight bend in the Colorado River. More trails trace the edge of the mesa, but the best view is from an observation deck. Even in the safety of the railed deck area, I was still wanting to hold on to something.

Hiking the Upheaval Dome Trail

There are some hiking loops in Dead Horse Point, but we chose to move on to Island in the Sky where there is a wider variety of terrain to explore. Our first stop in the National Park was the Upheaval Dome trail. Upheaval Dome is an impact structure, the deeply eroded remnants of an impact crater about 3 miles across.

Upheaval Dome

We hiked initially to the first observation area, but then decided to hike further out along the rim. It is a somewhat challenging hike, the trail climbing up and down the rock and crossing narrow ledges. At times there were rock cairns to follow along the slick rock. The big problem with rock cairns on these busy trails though, is that people like to build their own for fun. In some areas the false ones would lead you off in the wrong direction.

Ledge trail carved into the sandstone

Once back at the trailhead, we enjoyed a nice lunch in the shade. Whale Rock was nearby, so we decided to climb it next. Whale rock is a big mound of sandstone that looks like a giant desert whale if you have a good imagination. This trail is almost all on rock, again marked by cairns. Luckily, there were fewer rogue trail markers on this one, and we found ourselves on the top for fantastic 360 degree views of the area.

Whale Rock

Climbing Whale Rock

The view from Whale Rock

The remainder of our day on Island in the Sky was more of a scenic drive, only getting out of the car for short walks to vista points. Some of the views were almost frightening. It looked as if the ground was ripping apart, the lacerations in the earth tearing their way towards you, ready to pull you down to the fiery center of the earth. Apparently, much of this area was once an ancient sea bed. With that in mind, the layout of the land begins to make more sense.

The earth, tearing open

A crow soars above the White Rim

At the end of the road, we hiked around the Grand View Point Overlook. Again, more awesome views that challenged comprehension. I would’ve liked to have just sat there and taken it all in, but it was too hard to relax. Families with small kids that didn’t share my fear of heights scampered along the retaining wall. It was more than I could stand to watch, and I finally had to leave!

The White Rim above the Green River

After a breathtaking day, we made our way back to Moab in search of a big dinner and locally made brews. We’d also have to rest up for another day of hiking, exploring The Devil’s Garden in Arches National Park.

More Information:

More photos of Dead Horse Point.
More photos of Island in the Sky.

Canyonlands National Park – Island in the Sky National Park site.
Dead Horse Point State Park site.

Arches National Park – Day 1

Posted on May 8, 2013 by Jeff Moser

We had such a great time in Utah last year, that we decided to go back again for this year’s Spring Break. Wanting to see some different areas, we traveled to the southeastern side of the state to the little town of Moab.

Park Avenue Viewpoint

After two days of driving Highway 50 through the solitude of Nevada and Utah, we arrived in Moab on a Friday afternoon. Highway 191 through town was full of outdoor enthusiasts of all persuasions. Filling the road were gigantic RVs, Jeeps, Harleys, pickup trucks loaded with dirt bikes, and cars with bicycles on the roof. The sidewalks and businesses were abuzz with people, each person wearing the uniform of their sport. Hotels and campgrounds were full to capacity, everyone here to enjoy the unique adventures that this area has to offer.

Park Avenue

Our first destination for this trip was Arches National Park. It was by far the busiest of the parks we visited on our trip, and for good reason. Not only is it a beautiful place, but the park entrance is only a mile out of town, and the trails of the park are accessible to the masses.

Park Avenue

We entered the park mid Saturday morning. The visitor center is right off the highway, but we voted to pass it on by. After 2 days of driving, we were eager to get our boots on the trail. The park road makes a few switchbacks up the canyon, then quickly arrives at the trailhead for Park Avenue. There’s a viewpoint right at the parking lot that is spectacular.

Park Avenue

The best way to see Park Avenue, though, is to walk it. A trail leads down from the viewpoint, and rejoins the park road about a mile down. It can be shuttled or just walked out and back. Having only one vehicle, we just walked nearly to the end and back for a great way to start the day. And as many people as we saw at the parking lot, it was surprising that we saw very few down in the canyon.

Petrified Sand Dunes and La Sal Mountains

After hiking Park Avenue, we drove further north into the park, passing many named rock formations, The Great Wall, and petrified sand dunes. Off to the southeast, the snow-capped La Sal mountains could be seen, creating another beautiful and different layer to the landscape.

Balanced Rock

Our next stop was for a quick hike around Balanced Rock. According to Wikipedia, the total height of Balanced Rock is about 128 feet, with the balancing rock rising 55 feet above the base. The big rock on top is the size of three school buses.

Double Arch

Just past Balanced Rock is the turnoff to several attractions. We grabbed the last parking spot at the end of the loop. On this busy Spring Break weekend, we seemed to be always getting the last spot. From here we had access to Double Arch, North and South Window, and the Turret Arch, all just a short hike from the trailhead.

View from Double Arch

We climbed up into Double Arch at the end of the trail. To look out the second arch, you must climb up a final steep slope to a little ledge. Before going up, I waited for a group of people to come down, noticing that they were having some difficulty. Nearby high up, another man scrambled around the rocks, slowly picking his way across.

View from North Window

Once we had the arch to ourselves, I followed my son up the rocks. We quickly climbed up the sandstone face, using the cracks and bumps for foot and hand holds. After checking out the view, we started to come down. Of course my son went down quickly, but I had a few false starts, unsure of where to go. I understood now why the people before us were having so much difficulty. One of the cautions I’ve read about this area, is that people get themselves into trouble climbing the slickrock. Thanks to the design of our bodies and the effects of gravity, climbing up is fairly easy, but coming down can present a big challenge. I could see this clearly now, and was glad I was only a few feet up. I tried a few routes, then finally made it down, a little embarrassed that I got my self temporarily stuck in an easy situation.

South Window

Before heading off to see the other arches, we enjoyed a view of the land from the shade. I also noticed that the guy above us was still scrambling around the rocks. I began to wonder if he was also stuck. He wasn’t asking for help though, and there was plenty of daylight left. We left him to his climb.

Turret Arch

A visit to Arches National Park isn’t complete without viewing Delicate Arch. Delicate Arch is a 65-foot tall freestanding natural arch. Standing all by itself, it’s a unique formation in the park. It is the most widely-recognized landmark in Arches National Park, is depicted on Utah license plates, and its likeness is found on a myriad of t-shirts, trinkets, and souvenirs.

Delicate Arch

There are two ways to view Delicate Arch. There is a longer trail that takes you all the way up to the arch, and there is a shorter trail that lets you view the arch from lower across the canyon. In the interest if time, we picked the short route. It doesn’t get you up close and personal, but the trail is fun, and it does provide a full view. I was glad to have a decent zoom lens on my camera for sure though.

Fiery Furnace

Before heading back to Moab for the night, we stopped off at the Fiery Furnace view point. The Fiery Furnace looks like it would be fun to explore with its labyrinth like layout, but unfortunately, access is only permitted by a ranger led tour. There was still much to explore in the northern end of the park, but we were ready to head back. The Devils Garden would have to wait until later in the week…

More photos from this day can be seen on Flickr.

Learn more about Arches National Park on the official NPS website.

Snowshoeing Duane Bliss Peak

Posted on March 20, 2013 by Jeff Moser

Last weekend my friend Jonathon and I got out for what was most likely my last snowshoeing trip until next winter. We began our day at the Spooner Summit Tahoe Rim Trail crossing with no particular destination in mind. The TRT to the north was completely melted of snow, with only patches of white visible through the trees further up the mountain. The north facing slopes to the south looked much more promising, the mountains still covered in plenty of snow for our snowshoes.

First views of Lake Tahoe

We headed across the highway to catch the southbound Tahoe Rim Trail, passing through Zephyr Cove’s snowmobile fleet. Dozens of snowmobiles sat idle, with no sign of activity about the lot. Another good indication that winter sports are winding down. We strapped on our snowshoes, and walked over to the trail kiosk. Typically there is a trail stomped into the ground here, but today there weren’t too many signs of organized activity. Mostly just random tracks on the hillside, both from hikers and snow machines.

Looking up Duane Bliss Peak from the west

We loosely followed the TRT, but it soon became hard to follow under the snow. Instead we followed snowmobile tracks that were headed in the right direction, since the snow was firmer and easier to walk on. When we blazed our own trail, the snow was really unpredictable. Every few steps a leg would crash through the snow up to the knee, making it hard to find a good rhythm.

Making our way through the Aspens

After a couple miles of walking, we had South Camp Peak and Genoa Peak in view. They still looked pretty far off though, and we weren’t sure we wanted to go that far. Just off to the east though was Duane Bliss Peak. It looked like a fun climb right in our vicinity.

Patchy snow on the west face

Not only had I not considered climbing Duane Bliss Peak on this outing, but I’d never considered it ever. It’s certainly a respectable mountain, but it’s overshadowed by other larger peaks in the area. At only 8,658 ft tall, it doesn’t stand out in elevation, and there are no trails going to the top. It’s also steep on all sides. But one thing I’ve noticed this winter, is that mountains like Duane Bliss are ideal for winter climbs. It’s actually easier in the snow, since in the summer you’d have to contend with steep sandy slopes and thick brush.

False summit in view

The Peak is named for Duane Leroy Bliss (November 30, 1833 – April 21, 1907), a 19th-century Nevada timber and mining magnate. According to Wikipedia, he founded the Carson and Tahoe Lumber and Fluming Company from Gold Hill, Nevada. He eventually controlled every facet of the business from the land to the timber, ships and barges to move the timber, flumes and the railroad system he built. The Bliss Mansion is a historical landmark across the street from the Governor’s Mansion in Carson City. In 1907 he completed the renowned Glenbrook Inn which became a tourist destination for the elite families of San Francisco. Glenbrook Bay is clearly visible to the west from the top of the Peak.

Finishing the climb without snowshoes

We crossed through a grove of Aspens in a small meadow, then began our steep ascent up the west face of Duane Bliss Peak. We engaged the heel lifts on our snowshoes to make the climbing easier, and we were really thankful we had them. It was slow going, but we gained elevation quickly.

Reaching the peak and looking over the edge

The snow became patchier the higher we got. We navigated from snow bank to snow bank, sometimes having to walk through the soft forest duff in between. Eventually we could see the top, and it was almost completely snowless. We ditched the snowshoes and made the final climb to the top in our hiking boots.

View of Lake Tahoe and Glenbrook Bay

After leaving the snowshoes behind we reached the first false summit. And then another one. Finally, we could see the real top. Expansive views of Lake Tahoe and the mountains to the west opened up behind us, and as we neared the peak, Carson City and the Carson Valley came into view to the east. Genoa Peak was about as far south as we could see, but we could see as far north as Mount Rose and its surrounding mountains.

Carson City to the northeast

I signed us in to the Peak Register. A lady from Sacramento was the previous person to sign in at the beginning of the month. Previous entries were fairly spaced out in the log, suggesting that the peak is not often climbed. We enjoyed the views and took a lot of photos, but the wind was freezing. The peak was not the most ideal place for lunch on this day.

Planning the route back

We went back down and retrieved our snowshoes, then headed to the east side of the peak to find a warm spot for lunch. We found a level spot under a huge pine tree out of the wind. Evidently this giant tree survived the clear cutting of Duane Bliss and his contemporaries. We warmed up, enjoyed a nice lunch, then began planning our route back.

Descending a steep draw

We decided on a different route down that took us to the northwest side of the mountain in a direction towards Spooner Summit. We found a nice draw that was snow-covered and fairly free of obstacles. In previous outings this year, a rapid descent down this type of terrain would have been easy. But with the warm Spring snow, the way down was slow going. You just never knew when you’d sink down into the snow, so running down the hill wasn’t really possible. A brave snowmobiler had passed through this steep draw in days past, leaving us a firm track to follow at times. But it too was hard to descend at times. Mostly I was just amazed that the snowshoes allowed me to walk down this terrain at all. Without them, I would’ve been rolling down the mountainside.

Coming down the mountain

Once off the mountain, we followed official snowmobile trails and even found the TRT at times where the snow was melted. Eventually we found our tracks from earlier in the day, and followed them out. We really had to look hard though, because the snow was melting so fast that our tracks were starting to disappear.

We saw the TRT at times

Duane Bliss Peak is a great snowshoe hike even though it is not real popular. Its close proximity to the trailhead makes it a good destination for a shorter day trip. With the heavy tree cover and without a defined trail, it’s a fun place to practice your navigation skills. But probably most rewarding of all are the excellent views from the top.

Back at the trailhead – Snow Machines preparing to hibernate

More info about this hike can be found on Summit Post.

More photos of this trip on Flickr.

(And thank you Jonathon Springer for the use of some of your great photos!)

Platypus SoftBottle Review

Posted on March 14, 2013 by Jeff Moser

This winter I’ve been using the Platypus SoftBottles from Cascade Designs. I’ve been using regular Nalgene hard bottles for years now, and was curious to see how the soft bottles compared. I was attracted to the SoftBottle because of its light weight and collapsible properties, but was a little uncertain about the bottle’s small opening. Would it be hard to fill and clean the bottle? I decided to find out.

34 oz and 17 oz Platypus SoftBottles

Sizes

I first purchased the 17 oz SoftBottle, wanting to try the smaller bottle just in case I didn’t care for it. While a pint is a good size for a serving of beer, I found the pint sized SoftBottle just too limiting for carrying water. Even a small bicycle water bottle is 21 ounces.

Still interested in this design, I picked up the 34 oz (1 liter) SoftBottle a few weeks later. The dimensions of the 34 oz model are only slightly greater than those of the smaller bottle, but it holds twice the capacity. 34 ounces is a lot more practical for proper hydration, and even surpasses the capacity of a Nalgene bottle.

Small Capacity: 17 fl. oz / 0.5 liters
Weight: 0.8 oz / 22 g
Width: 5 in / 12 cm
Length: 12 in / 29 cm

Large Capacity: 34 fl. oz / 1 liters
Weight: 1.2 oz / 35 g
Width: 6 in / 15 cm
Length: 13 in / 33 cm

Taste

According to the manufacture’s website, the SoftBottles have a “Clean-Taste Guarantee” and they’re made without BPA. I’ve been using the SoftBottle for weekend outings, and it goes in my pack on the weekdays to work. It’s definitely one of the cleanest, if not the cleanest tasting bottle I’ve ever drank from. Even water that’s been sitting in the bottle overnight tastes fresh. I haven’t really done anything to clean them besides rinse them out with hot water occasionally. It’s hard to air dry them completely with such a small opening, but it doesn’t seem to matter too much.

The SoftBottle compressed

Light Weight and Compressible

What sets the SoftBottles apart from other water bottles are their incredible light weight and compressibility. An empty 1 liter bottle weighs just 35 grams (1.2 oz), and compresses flat or rolls up when not in use. By comparison, a Nalgene hard bottle weighs 179 grams (6.3 oz), and takes up the same volume whether empty or not. This weight difference may not seem like a lot on its own, but when you start being weight conscious with all the gear you plan to carry, significant weight savings can be attained. It all adds up. I’ve also found the flexible, compressible design of the SoftBottle to be advantageous when space is an issue.

Pros

Great tasting water – no plastic taste.
Super light weight.
SoftBottle has the ability to compress as it empties, and even flattens or rolls up small when empty. Creates more room in your pack.
Bottle stands up on its own when full.
A good alternative for people who don’t care for CamelBak style drink systems.

Cons

Small opening makes the bottle harder to clean and fill in some situations, and may be hard to use with some water filters. Less versatile than a hard bottle when it comes to filling with hot water.
Probably not as durable as a hard bottle (although no problems have been encountered yet).
Flexible design doesn’t stuff well into the tight mesh side pockets on my pack. And since these side pockets are half the height of the bottle, the bottle wants to fold over since it’s not supported.
The half liter bottle is a bit small for adequate hydration. The 1 liter bottle doesn’t take up much more room, has a much more reasonable storage capacity, and is only $1 more.

Empty Hard / Soft Bottle size comparison

Summary

While I won’t be giving up my trusty Nalgene hard bottles, I’ve really gotten to like my 1 liter Platypus SoftBottle. It’s been a great size for snowshoeing, hiking, and peak bagging. I appreciate the light weight, and the slim design works well in my day pack. The SoftBottle doesn’t even have to be empty to get smaller, since you can squeeze the air out of it as you drink. It also works good for situations where I only need the water at my destination; for example, the empty SoftBottle goes in my pack for work. I only fill it up once I’m there, and empty it before I leave, saving both weight and space.

As I stated above, I thought the half liter bottle was too small for me. I still use it though. It’s not a bad auxiliary bottle, makes a good kid’s bottle, and I sometimes use it to bring extra water for our small dogs.

The SoftBottle has less versatility compared to a wide-mouthed Nalgene bottle. It’s not as easy to use with my water filter, and filling the bottle with hot water would be a mess. But for most other uses, the lightweight SoftBottle is great. Two or three of the 1 liter bottles on a long summer hike would be ideal for traveling fast and light.

Ready to buy?

Purchase the 1 Liter (34 oz) Platypus SoftBottle now at REI.

(Disclaimer: I’m an REI affiliate, and receive a small commission from the sale which helps to support this website. I purchased this product, and the opinions here are my own.)

More Information

Manufacturer’s website at cascadedesigns.com.

Related product reviewed here on The Path Less Beaten: PlatyPreserve Wine Preservation System

Black Point Fissures

Posted on March 5, 2013 by Jeff Moser

Still a month away from spring break, we were in desperate need of a mini-adventure to tide us over. Ever since reading about the Black Point Fissures over on Lady on a Rock, I’ve been wanting to get down to Mono Lake to check them out. With a receding snow pack and warm temperatures forecasted for Saturday, it looked like the perfect weekend to climb a volcano.

Trailhead

Getting There

Mono Lake is about 2 hours south of Carson City on HWY 395. It’s a very scenic drive and goes by pretty quickly. The roads were good the entire way, with mostly just patchy snow in the hills between Walker and Conway Summit. The snow cleared as we descended down to Mono Lake.

Getting to the Trailhead

Just off the north shore of Mono Lake lies the volcano Black Point, a low, mesa-like mountain of black ash. Black Point erupted about 13,000 years ago following the last ice age, when Mono Lake swelled to five times its current size and nearly ten times its current depth. At that time of its eruption, Black Point was located under water, which probably accounts for its unusual flattened top and the 20 – 50′ deep fissures on its southwestern face. The fissures are only a few feet wide, resembling the slot canyons of southern Utah.

Seekers of the Black Point Fissures

There are a couple ways to get to the Black Point trailhead. The easiest way is to take the Cemetery Road turnoff at the north end of Mono Lake on HWY 395, and just follow the signs as you head around to the east side of Black Point. That’s not the way we came in though. We took route 167 east past the point, then came in from the north. We guessed on some of the turns, and ended up driving around an old ranch trying to find the right road. Thankfully I got a phone signal and was able to pull up a satellite map. We eventually got back on the right track and made our way to the trailhead. Cemetery Road is a well graded dirt road, but the final dirt road to the trailhead is an uneven jeep road. Low clearance vehicles will have to be careful on this stretch.

Starting the climb through the brush

The Hike

Although I’m calling this a trailhead, I only mean that there is parking and an informational kiosk. Nothing more. From this point on, it’s up to the hiker to find the way to the top of the mountain and the fissures. Thankfully, if you just head up the mountain to west, you’ll find your way just fine. To make it easier, I used my GPS to navigate to the peak of Black Point.

Nearing the top

Although not a far hike, the side of the hill is mostly sandy, and you have to navigate your way around brush and sticker bushes. You can’t see the top of Black Point until you are almost there. Near the top you reach ledges that are made of hardened mud and rock. The rock offers great traction unless it’s covered in debris. Then be careful, because the little round volcanic rocks are like walking on ball bearings.

Almost there with a view of the Sierras

The top of Black Point makes a great first destination. There are great views in all directions, and it gives you a good layout of the land. Just off to the northwest you can see the fissures. We headed to the north end of the fissures, and would eventually follow them to the southwest.

Top of Black Point

As we approached the fissures, they looked like nothing more than sand washes from a distance. It’s not until you get right next to them that you can see how deep they are. For this reason, it’s probably a good idea to keep young kids and pets close by as you approach the fissures.

Fissures visible to the Northwest of the peak

Even though the fissures have steep edges, they are actually quite easy to enter. Many of the fissures can be just walked into on either end, and others are a simple climb down.

Entering the fissures

Right away my son pointed out the similarities to the lava tubes we explored last year at Lava Beds National Monument. Hardened bubbly lava still lines the walls in some places, and even though they’re not caves, they have the same damp musty smell. And just like caves, the temperature drops noticeably in some of the deeper fissures.

Sometimes there were tight squeezes

Occasionally there would be a tight squeeze to get to the next section. I had to take my pack off for a couple of the tighter spots and hand it through. Icy snow throughout the fissures also added a fun challenge to the hike.

Bubbly lava on the walls

Lots of snow left in the fissures

Climbing down with the dogs

Earlier, my son and I talked about getting a photo of him jumping across one of the fissures. But after spending some time down in them, my parent instincts took over and I decided against it. He almost certainly could have done it easily in some places, but I kept thinking, “What if…?”.

View of fissures from the top

Narrowest fissure of the day

The last fissure at the edge of the plateau was the narrowest and deepest of the day. It was only a couple feet wide, just wide enough to walk through. The top was high above our heads, and there was ice on the walls where the water trickled down into the fissure.

Taking a break at the end of the fissures

After we got our fill of the fissures, we took a break overlooking Mono Lake with expansive views of the still snowy Sierras. Mono Lake is one of those places where everything is so vast, that the awesomeness of the lake, desert, and mountains seems to re-energize the body. Being outside is sometimes the best medicine.

Black volcanic sand

From the end of the fissures, we headed south towards Mono Lake. I hadn’t realized how high we still were when we came to the edge of the black sand face of Black Point. These black volcanic sands are obviously where Black Point gets its name, and are clearly visible from the highway. By the time I got there, my son had already ran all the way to the bottom. We followed his lead, and ran down the steep slope, taking giant steps all the way.

Down to Mono Lake

Down at the lake shore, the smells were similar to the ocean. If you closed your eyes, you could imagine yourself at the sea, with only the lack of huge crashing waves absent. Mono Lake has over twice the salinity levels of the ocean, and doesn’t support a fish habitat. The rocks that line the shore were covered in salt crystals left behind by the evaporating water. There is still plenty of life in and along the lake though. Brine shrimp and algae dominate the aquatic life, and alkali flies buzz along the shoreline. Along with the shrimp, the flies are a important source of food for many bird species. We hiked along the mysterious lake shore as we returned back to the trailhead.

Returning to the trailhead along Mono Lake

Before heading back home, we wanted to get something to eat in Lee Vining. Normally this little town is bustling in the summer months, and we were surprised at how many businesses were closed for the season. Luckily we found the roadside diner Nicely’s open, where we found good burgers, beer, and a huge sundae.

End of the day reward at Nicely’s in Lee Vining

On the way home we wanted to check out Travertine Hot Springs near Bridgeport. By the time we got there though it was nearly dark. We drove to the hot springs, but the boy and I couldn’t find the hot pools as we hiked around in the dark. I’ve since looked at the map, and we were no more than 50 feet away from them. But now that we know exactly where they are, we’ll be back to check them out our next time down there.

The complete photoset of this trip can be found on Flickr here.

Snowshoeing with the Dogs

Posted on February 27, 2013 by Jeff Moser

We got out for another snowshoeing trip up at Carson Pass a couple weekends ago. Kristy wanted to bring the dogs. While I was reluctant to bring them due to the terrain and conditions, I couldn’t say no after looking into their eyes. They wanted to go play outside so bad (can you blame them?), but they also had that look on their faces that said they would trash the house if they didn’t get to go.

The Carson Pass and Meiss Meadow trailhead were both packed when we arrived at the pass on an apparently busy Presidents Day weekend. We drove a bit further to look at the Thunder Mountain Trailhead, but it was snowed in with no parking. We returned to the Meiss Meadow SNO-PARK, and grabbed one of the last spots. As we got ready to start our hike though, we noticed that most of the people in this lot were headed south in the opposite direction for a snow camping expedition. Maybe it wouldn’t be so crowded after all.

Before heading out, we applied Vaseline to the dogs paws. We had heard that this may help protect the paws from cold and abrasion; however, it really didn’t seem to do much for our dainty little dogs except help attract dirt and other debris.

The snow was packed and icy, and allowed our dogs to freely explore the snowy landscape. This is a big deal when you legs are only 5-6 inches long. These dogs would disappear in powder conditions. They were loving it.

The Chihuahua was the first to fizzle out. Remarkably, she wasn’t frozen yet, but her pace slowed to a crawl. It was obvious the ice was too rough on her paws. She was the first to be scooped up and put inside a jacket.

Our other dog, a Brussels Griffon, is built a little better for the snow. Her paws are wide, almost like little snowshoes.

We snowshoed north on the Pacific Crest Trail for a bit, then climbed to the ridge above Red Lake. The wind on the ridge dropped the temperature considerably, and appeared to sap the rest of the other dog’s energy. She looked freezing, despite her silly pink fleece jacket. She walked a bit past the windy ridge, but then it appeared that she too succumbed to sore paws. Into Kristy’s jacket she went. I took the Chihuahua.

For the remainder of the hike, a little over 2 miles, the dogs were perfectly content to ride in our jackets, only coming out briefly to have a snack at lunch. In spite of the busy parking lot, we didn’t see one other person the entire hike. It turned out to be a great day.

When it comes to outdoor recreation, it’s a tough time of year for our dogs. They’re much better suited to the warm hiking trips of summer. But even though they had to be carried for half of this outing, I don’t think they’d have it any other way.

MSR Evo Ascent Snowshoes Review

Posted on February 11, 2013 by Jeff Moser

When I was shopping for my first pair of snowshoes a couple years ago, I really didn’t know what to look for. In my mind, I was looking for a style that is popular today, the snowshoes with the frame made of aluminum tubing. The sales staff at REI directed me to the MSR Evo line though, and after a good explanation of the features and differences of the Evo, I was ready to give them a try. We ended up getting Evos for the whole family. Of course I spent more money than I had originally intended, but this always seems to be the case, doesn’t it? Luckily I wasn’t disappointed.

MSR Evo Ascent Snowshoes

Here are some of the features of the MSR Evo:

Injection-molded plastic decks are lightweight and durable, and offer plenty of surface for great performance on rolling terrain; tapered shape facilitates a natural stride.
Unibody Traction: Molded horizontal brakes under the deck create a snowplow effect, providing traction for uphill and downhill travel. Stainless-steel crampons offer positive traction for great bite, while the multi-toothed side rails offer grip for traversing side slopes and icy terrain.
3-strap bindings with heel stabilizers stay pliable and easily adjusted in cold temperatures, even if you’re wearing mittens; bindings accommodate a wide variety of boots.
All-Condition Adaptability: 6-inch (15-cm) Evo Flotation Tails (sold separately) add buoyancy when walking in deep powder snow or carrying heavy loads.
Uphill Efficiency: Televators reduce fatigue, increase traction on the steeps, and engage easily with glove-friendly pull-tabs.
Retail for about $199
Made in the USA.

PosiLock AT bindings

It’s been a good winter for snowshoeing here, and luckily I’ve been able to get out several times and experience a wide variety of terrain and snow conditions. This experience has imparted a better knowledge for what’s important in a snowshoe. I’ll break these characteristics down into four areas: flotation, traction, mobility, and ease of use.

Snowshoe underside closeup

Flotation

As anyone who has tried to walk through deep snow knows, your shoe doesn’t have enough surface area to float on top of the snow. With just boots on, your legs post hole into the snow, maybe even up to your waist depending on how deep and soft the snow is. When people think of snowshoes, flotation is probably the function of snowshoes that first comes to mind.

While flotation is definitely important, I found that I have seldom had to walk in deep soft snow. I am frequently following the packed tracks of others before me, or the snow is icy or crusty. The shorter 22 inch length of the Evo keeps them easy to walk in, while still offering plenty of flotation for many situations.

But sometimes you do need a longer snowshoe. What’s nice about the MSR Evos is that they have the optional 6 inch flotation tails. The tails install quickly when you need them should you be the first one out after a storm breaking fresh trail. Also, if you happen to be carrying a heavy pack, the longer footprint will help you keep up on top of the snow. I generally take my tails to the trailhead and assess the snow conditions before installing them, but they also stow easily in your pack should you be snowshoeing through changing conditions.

Televators for uphill efficiency

Traction

One of the functions of snowshoes that beginners may overlook is traction. You need traction to ascend, descend, and traverse the terrain you are likely to encounter in the backcountry. Once you get out on a steep icy slope, you’ll find that flotation may have nothing to do with it; it’s all about traction. Traction is where the MSR line of snowshoes excels over other designs. The aluminum tubes of other brands provide the frame of the snowshoe, but they offer little (if anything) in the way of traction. The traction on these other snowshoes comes only from the crampons directly below the shoe on the binding.

The rugged plastic decks of the Evos, however, have steel traction rails that run the length of the snow shoe on both sides. You really appreciate these traction rails when traversing a side hill. These multi-toothed side rails also give you a lot more biting edges for extra traction in icy and crusty snow. The rails also seem to be quite durable. I once chose to walk through a short section of mud and rocks on a mountainside, not wanting to stop to remove my snowshoes. I’ve also clipped a few rocks hiding under the snow. While the finish has come of the tips of the spikes some, the rails and spikes still remain very straight.

Additionally, the composite design of the decks incorporate molded horizontal brakes that create a snowplow effect, providing extra traction for uphill and downhill travel. All these traction features translate into a snowshoe that will amaze you with the places you’ll be able to go with confidence.

Attaching the optional 6 inch tails

Mobility

The dimensions of the Evo Ascent snowshoes is 8″ wide by 22″ long. This compact design makes them easy to negotiate technical sections, and facilitates easy walking in most conditions. As I mentioned before, the 6 inch tails can be installed if needed for more flotation, but you can definitely feel the extra drag of a longer shoe. The 8″ width is also a little narrower than some designs, and this allows you to walk with a more natural gait. This is important, because I’ve heard some snowshoers complain of pain in hips and groin, because they have to walk with their legs too far apart.

Another feature of the Evo Ascents is the Televators. The Televators are a heel lift that you can flip up when the incline gets really steep. This reduces leg fatigue and helps with traction, since it puts your foot in a more natural position. Instead of your feet being angled at the same incline of the slope, the Televators put your foot in a position that’s more akin to climbing stairs. On rolling terrain I forget about the Televators, but on a recent climb up Red Lake Peak, they came in really handy. It was steep, and we were doing extended climbing over a couple miles. I felt that the Televators really added to comfort and performance during the climb.

If you don’t think you’ll be doing any extended climbing or are just on a tighter budget, you may consider another snowshoe from the MSR line without the Televators. We got my son the standard MSR Evo snowshoes. It has a slightly different binding, no Televators, but all the other features that make MSR snowshoes great are still there. They run about $60 cheaper than the Ascents, which is a pretty big difference. Especially if you have to buy multiple pairs for the family. You’ll still be able to climb steep mountains without the Televators, it just won’t be as comfortable as with them.

Attaching the optional 6 inch tails

Ease of Use

I’m happy with the bindings on my Evos. I can get into my snowshoes quickly, and the stretchy rubber straps let me customize the fit. Since I can determine the tension of each strap, the bindings don’t feel too tight or too lose. This helps prevent any hot spots that may become achy later, and cause premature fatigue.

One of the reasons the MSR snowshoes were recommended to me is that the bindings are hydrophobic, which basically means they repel water. The rubber straps won’t absorb water like some of the other nylon designs out there. If binding straps absorbs water, they can freeze and become hard to get on or off. The MSR rubber bindings will perform the same in all conditions.

I’ve also found the bindings fairly easy to work with gloved hands, as they don’t require much dexterity. The Televators have a big pull tab on them that makes them easy to flip up with your thumb and forefinger. Clicking Televators back down takes a little more effort, but is easy enough using a palm or two thumbs.

The optional tails are easy to attach. Simply position the holes of the tail over the posts on the back of the snowshoe, slide forward, and secure in place with the wing nut. Reverse the process to remove.

Torn Strap

Problems Encountered

The only problem I’ve encountered so far with my Evo snowshoes is a torn strap. Once while putting the snowshoes on, I noticed there was a tear on a strap where it attached to the binding. Luckily the strap continued to function for a few more outings until I could get the replacement strap kit. What I believe happened is that I used a boot that was too wide for the binding. I used my Sorel Caribou snow boots for their warmth and waterproof qualities on a couple trips; however, these boots are really wide, and it seemed like I really had to stretch out the binding to make it fit. The extra stress probably began to tear the strap. As it turns out though, the Sorels were nice and warm, but the extra weight of these big boots quickly wore me out. I’ve since gone back to my hiking boots.

The replacement strap kit was only about $8.00, and came with two straps. I was able to swap out the broken strap in less than 30 seconds. The replacement straps are 14 inches long. I measured all the straps on my snowshoes and found that the front two straps are 12 inches long, and the back two are 14 inches long. The replacement straps will replace any of the straps on the snowshoes, and I didn’t find the extra 2 inches to be inconvenient. I now keep the spare strap in my pack for repairs on the trail.

Replacement strap kit

Summary

I highly recommend the MSR line of snowshoes. They come in several models with various options, so it’s pretty easy to pick a pair snowshoes that matches your budget and terrain you expect to encounter most often. The Evos are comfortable and light enough for extended outings, and the ergonomics allow you to walk normally. The compact design makes them agile, but the optional tails are available for softer, deeper snow. If you plan to do some extended climbing in your snowshoes, i.e. straight up the mountain, and not a gently climbing trail, then the Televators make a nice upgrade. The traction on the MSR snowshoes is superior to other designs I’ve seen. I’ve followed other people down steep side hills, and watched them slip all over the place while my MSR snowshoes stuck firmly in the snow and ice. I’ve used my snowshoes for a couple seasons now, and have had just one problem with a strap which I had to replace. All other components have taken a beating, but have only sustained minor cosmetic damage.

More Information

Manufacturer’s website at Cascade Designs.

Ready to buy?

Purchase the MSR Evo Ascent Snowshoes now over at REI.
Or browse other MSR snowshoes models on REI here.
And here is the strap replacement kit.

(Disclaimer: I’m an REI affiliate, and receive a small commission from the sale which helps to support this website. I purchased this product, and the opinions here are my own.)

Snowshoe to Red Lake Peak

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Jeff Moser

With the Groundhog’s announcement that Spring is to come early this year, I knew it was time to get back to the mountains for some snowshoeing before all the snow is gone. Super Bowl Sunday was a beautiful sunny day, and all I could think about was wide-open super bowls of snow. Traffic and people out on the trail are generally light on these big TV holidays, and I wanted to take advantage of it. I was able to find a friend with the same idea, and he was even planning to go to the same area. Great minds think alike. We agreed that Red Lake Peak near Carson Pass would be a fun challenge for the day.

Approaching Red Lake Peak from the southwest

We arrived at the Meiss Meadow SNO-PARK trailhead sometime before noon to a surprisingly busy parking lot. As we were unloading, a large group of around 20 people started coming off the mountain with camping gear in huge packs. The campers looked to be in their 20s, and it seemed most of them were women. They had spent the night up in the mountains, and had even dug snow caves!

View of Elephants Back, Round Top, and The Sisters

We got our snowshoes on, then headed up the Pacific Crest Trail north from the parking lot towards Meiss Meadow. After getting around the first big hill though, we turned towards Red Lake Peak and began a gentle climb in that direction.

Jonathon Springer looks out to the southeast

We picked out a path through the rocks above, and then made a big sweeping arc through the valley of snow. Once around the rocky outcroppings we were one the west side of the peak and into another large snowy bowl. Climbing gradually, we made for the ridgeline below the false summit.

View to the west

On the way up we passed beneath a long cornice of wind loaded snow. The avalanche danger was rated as low this day, but I still didn’t feel like spending too much time here. We kept moving, finally getting up on top of the ridge for a break and some good views of Red Lake below on the other side.

Preparing to climb the False Summit

Looking up, we couldn’t see past the false summit. We decided that straight up the mountain looked like the best route with the most snow though. The terrain got pretty steep here, so we decided to engage our snowshoe televators, little heel lifters on the back of the snowshoes that place your foot in a more comfortable position for climbing. I once tried them out after first getting my snowshoes, but I generally forget I have them. Especially when snowshoeing on rolling terrain. For this extended climb though, they worked wonderfully.

Starting to get steep

As we got further up the steep slope, the feeling was incredible. It was like being in my own mountaineering documentary, but without the danger. I had just got done saying how safe I felt on the side of the mountain when we came to a big crack in the snow. The two-inch fault line crossed the entire slab of snow above us. I suddenly lost that feeling of complete safety, and we carefully moved near the rocks to the side, just in case the slab we were standing on decided to break loose. The snow wasn’t real deep, and I have no idea if we were in any real danger, but I didn’t want to stick around to find out!

Looking back down the ridge

Out of the snowshoes now

Once over the hump of the false summit, the slope eased up, and the snow became sparse. The wind swept summit was pretty much snow-free at this point, so we took off our snowshoes. Jonathon had come more prepared, and was able to strap his snowshoes to his pack. I had to carry mine in one hand, and go to one pole.

Almost to the real summit (the pile of rocks)

On top of the false summit, we could now see the real summit. My GPS showed that the nearest pile of rocks was the highest point at 10,069 feet. If you took away the steep rocks, we were pretty close in elevation to the top. I asked Jonathon, “What do you think? This high enough?”. He thought there might be a better view from the actual summit, and wanted to keep going. That’s the trouble with bringing courageous friends along.

Final climb

Still out of the snowshoes, we hiked across the saddle to the rocks. There looked to be a way up on the west side. The snow was deeper here, and it was steep. Looking down though, I didn’t feel like I would die if I fell. I’d probably just get one heck of a sledding trip. Without the snowshoes on, our boots post-holed into the snow. But this was also somewhat reassuring, since it would be hard to simply slip down the mountain this way.

Looking back across the ridge

A long way down

After traversing around the peak, it was time to go straight up again. Luckily there were some exposed rocks here that made the going easier. Good traction for the boots, and hand holds. I also used my snowshoes as an ice axe of sorts, digging them into the snow for something to hold onto when there were no rocks.

Almost there

I made my way up to a little ledge between the two tallest rocky towers. This was as far as I would be going. My GPS said I was about 7 feet away from the top horizontally, but about 50 feet below it. Jonathon was already ahead of me, had dropped his gear, and was scrambling on up. I told him to be careful, and told him I wasn’t going to watch.

View to the east from the top

Through a window in the rocks, I had a partial view of Meiss Meadow to the northeast from where I was sitting. But to get a good view of the meadow and Lake Tahoe beyond, I would’ve had to stand up. I was sitting on a wobbly rock with good drops on either side of me. I felt a little dizzy, and my legs were beginning to cramp up from trying to grip the rocks. I had to get into a comfortable position and just tell myself to relax. Meanwhile, Jonathon came happily climbing back down from the top with a pair of sun glasses that he found up there.

View of Meiss Meadow

I tried to have a little lunch while sitting on my perch, but found that I didn’t have much of an appetite. My body said it would wait until we were on flatter ground. Also, sitting on the shady side of the peak, I was starting to get cold. We packed up and made our way down and back over to the ridge. Going down was a bit more difficult that climbing up, having to go backwards or feet first, but we eventually made it back.

Descending in thin slippery snow

Back at the ridge below the peak, we were able to relax and get some warm sun. My body sensing that I was out of danger, was now ready for lunch. I remembered that Red Lake Peak is believed to be the vantage point from which early explorers John C. Fremont and Charles Preuss made the first recorded sighting of Lake Tahoe in February 1844. I wondered if they sat where I was sitting now, or if they had gone all the way up to the top.

Back along a lower ridge, looking for a new route down

In order to avoid having to walk through the dirt and rocks again, we scouted out a new route to get off the mountain. We also wanted to see some new terrain on the way back. It was late afternoon now, and the snow was warming up. At times it felt like walking in frosting. Every 4th step would be a slide. This tended to be tedious on the side hills.

View of Lake Tahoe

When complete, our route looked like a figure eight. Along the way back we crossed a fun ridge with great views. Our route was not completely on the snow, but with only about 12 feet of mud and rocks to cross, we just walked slowly and carefully in our snowshoes across the snowless patch.

Looking back at Red Lake Peak

Back at the trailhead and looking back up the peak, I had a good feeling of accomplishment. It was about a 5 mile round trip with around 1,500 feet of climbing. While not overly difficult, I think this was my first real mountain peak climbed in the snow. I’m not sure how much longer the snow will last up there, but if we don’t get some storms soon, Spring really will be here before we know it. Tuckered out, we made one final stop on the way home at the Hope Valley Cafe for a round of well deserved beers.

For more photos of this trip, click on over to Flickr here.

Let’s Get the Gear

Posted on January 29, 2013 by Jeff Moser

Falling behind schedule, the family is loaded in the car waiting, the dogs are going nuts in anticipation of the hike, and I suddenly wonder if I’ve brought enough gear. Maybe I should have packed heavier jackets. Do we need a shovel in case we get stuck in the snow? I forgot the backup batteries for the GPS. Did we bring the dog’s folding water bowl? And so back into the house I run for more gear. Sometimes it borders on obsessive–compulsive disorder.

Some of the best comedy is stuff that makes you laugh at yourself. In this video clip from the TV series Portlandia, the couple goes way overboard on the gear for their “big outing”. While I don’t go to this extreme, it does remind me of myself at times.

I recently read a book of essays about John Muir. He’d go off into the wilderness for days with just the clothes on his back, some bread, tea (and a cup), and sometimes a blanket. Not even today’s ultra-light backpackers pack that light. These days we can get too wrapped up in the gear. Some of it is essential for comfort and safety. Some of it’s just fun. Or maybe we just want to look the part. I admit to walking through an outdoor store like REI, not only looking for what I came for, but sometimes to discover new things I didn’t know I needed.

Get the Gear. Just remember to balance it out. Take what you need, have some fun with your gadgets, but don’t let your gear consume you. Otherwise you’ll end up bringing all the distractions you’re trying to get away from, and only get 15 minutes of outside time like the couple in the video. The main goal is simply to enjoy the outdoors!

Snowshoeing to Winnemucca Lake

Posted on January 28, 2013 by Jeff Moser

On January 20th we got up to Carson Pass for a fine day of snowshoeing. When we arrived at the highway summit, we decided to snowshoe on the south side of the highway, up towards Winnemucca Lake. I was a little surprised to see how little snow there was on the north side of the road, with many of the wind blown ridges and south facing exposures already barren of snow. I guess it’s really just been a cold January, not a month of tremendous snow.

Getting Started – Red Lake Peak in the background

We parked at the Carson Pass SNO-PARK, located directly at Carson Pass Summit, and began our hike south along the Pacific Crest Trail. Snowshoers and backcountry skiers share the same route to begin with, following the blue diamond trail markers. Not too far up the trail though, several trails going in different directions began to form. We chose a well traveled route that bypassed Frog Lake on a more direct path to Winnemucca Lake.

Water Break

Once out of the trees, we started to get good views of Round Top peak to the south. While we had fairly deep snow back in the denser trees, it was now evident that we weren’t walking on top of too much snow out in the open. The tree wells revealed the ground just 2 or 3 feet below us. The snowpack is certainly better than last year, but we’re going to need more storms to catch us up. Especially if we want to continue snowshoeing much longer. Right now the extended forecast isn’t looking favorable for much more snow any time soon.

Caples Lake frozen over

Final climb to Winnemucca Lake and Round Top

We climbed along the base of Elephants Back, and then out into a wide open bowl for the final ascent to Winnemucca Lake. Caples Lake far below was frozen over, so we figured we’d find Winnemucca Lake in the same state when we arrived.

Lunch at Winnemucca Lake

Cresting the final hill and getting the first view of Winnemucca Lake at the base of Round Top was breathtaking. I thought I might be disappointed not getting to see the deep blue lake, but it was actually quite magnificent frozen over and covered in snow. With the craggy peaks above, the scene was very Arctic looking.

Emergency blanket becomes emergency sled

We found a nice collection of dry boulders with a good view of the lake to have lunch on. There was another group of people down at the lake, and they were out walking on top of the ice. There were even a couple people out on the islands. I imagine the ice was fairly safe, but I sure didn’t want to find out it wasn’t. We walked out on the lake a little, but only next to the shore.

Return Trip

My son noticed the other group was using tarps for sleds, and wanted to know if we had anything similar. I decided that our emergency blanket would probably work as a sled, so we unfolded it out to full size and gave it a try. Sure enough, in a scene reminiscent of a penguin documentary, my son was able to do some pretty good belly slides down the steep hill to the lake shore. One thing is for sure though; I don’t think we’ll get that blanket folded back up to its original compact size.

Frog Lake

We started to get chilled on our breezy ridge overlook, and decided it was time to head back and generate some body heat. We followed the route we came in on at first, but then veered off towards Frog Lake when we got near. It was only a little elevation gain to get there, but didn’t add any mileage. When we got to Frog Lake, it was barely distinguishable as a body of water. It’s not much more than a pond, and was hard to make out in the snow.

Elephants Back

All downhill from here

After a brief rest at Frog Lake, we began the final push to the trailhead. It was evident from the direction of the tracks we were following that we’d be taking a more direct route than the official trail. This would take us over some steeper and more challenging terrain. Climbing down the steep snow and traversing the side hills was a fun test of skill and equipment.

A good side hill challenge

Soon we were back at the trailhead. We had snowshoed a little over 5 miles, and felt like we had gotten a good workout. The terrain was fun, and we saw some spectacular scenery. I’d have to say this was the best snowshoe trip of the year so far.

Back at the trailhead

It’s good to be familiar with this area when snowshoeing. The official trail is buried under the snow, and there are many snowshoe tracks going off in several directions. There are some major landmarks to keep you oriented, but it wouldn’t take much to veer off course and lose the trailhead. You’d probably eventually find the highway, but the delay wouldn’t be any fun if you were short on daylight. It’s always best to have your map and compass with you. I brought my GPS along, and it proved to be pretty helpful for keeping us on track.

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